As everyone knows by now, resort is a season designed to do business. Whether intentional or not, Phillip Lim made that point crystal clear by presenting his collection in his Great Jones Street store, which was cleared of all current stock and pristinely remerchandised with the resort collection for press appointments. The whole lineup — women’s, men’s, shoes, bags — looked perfectly in place and ready to sell, which is a high compliment.
Lim said he wanted the collection to feel very “right now” and it did. He worked from a boho point of view, something he acknowledged as “ubiquitous,” which made it a fun challenge. The obvious motifs — fringe, over-the-knee suede boots, flowy dresses, etc. — were handled with restraint and modernism. Nothing went too far. A cotton cashmere Baja, knit tanks and tank dresses were done with just the right amount of fringe and could pair back to structured cady jackets with precise fluted sleeves for a tidy contrast. A selection of white dresses — a loose easy slip and a smocked wrap — perfectly captured a carefree spirit while keeping it fresh, clean and wearable.