Danish designer Anne Sofie Madsen was groomed at Galliano and McQueen, so an avant-garde-slash-artistic approach to design is part of her creative credo. To that end, this collection emerged from an image she found online of the interior of an Eighties strip club in parts unknown — and perhaps the seedy clientele who might frequent such a place. The translation: a leather patchwork dress covered in appliqués that included mirrored paillettes, semicircular metallic balls and an exquisitely crafted leather flower, based on a Japanese design decor motif, that also showed up as a choker necklace elsewhere in the collection.
Madsen was similarly inspired by the “flasher coat,” or as she called it, “a conservative garment” that when opened reveals something quite different. Taking cues from masters such as Martin Margiela and Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Madsen took the trench and literally had it come undone, appearing to be two coats — a thigh-length khaki trench layered as if falling off the other with asymmetrical plackets and belts hanging from wrist cuffs as long straps. The complicated motif worked best when imagined as a camisole dress with a layered sleeveless turtleneck or high-waisted black pants with the inner linings used as hip sashes.