Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters went against type for their first resort collection, taking a direct reference — instead of their typically abstract aesthetic triggers — from the recent Picasso exhibit at the Pace Gallery. They liked the way Jacqueline Roque dressed. “She was so cool,” Gabier said. “If she was wearing an evening coat, it would be with a trim cropped jean and a flat sandal. If she was wearing something more formal, it was with a wool car coat.”
The designers channeled that ease into the collection with idiosyncratic nonchalance, showing a purple abstract floral jacquard gown with a long tailored jacket with silver buttons and styling everything on flats. The collection did what resort is supposed to do: register a specific aesthetic in understandable clothes, and Gabier and Peters nailed it. The clothes retained the eccentricities the label is known for in fabrication — a coated linen, wallpaper florals in velvet and a dense cotton acetate satin that almost looked like leather — on easy silhouettes, such as A-line skirts, strapless dresses, linen knits in quasi-preppy shells and some great crafty cotton cashmere T-shirts with collage embroideries. There was even denim, a first for the label, done classic in a jean jacket and skirt.