Jason Wu is converting to a “wear-now” philosophy for resort. “I felt like I need to change the way I look at resort, and not let the name dictate what the collection is,” he said. “So this is a more subtle version.”
Wu continued with his exploration of American sportswear that he’s worked recently to impressive effect. His primary silhouette was controlled but not strict, with starched wool an important base fabric, which he layered deftly — a wool-and-fox vest over a jacket, for example — so as to provide various takes on chic while extending the wearability window. His decorative inclinations were inspired by the erotic embroideries of artist Ghada Amer, who created free-form lines over drawings of female nudes. He took a cue from the scribble element for a lovely abstract floral and intricate jet-embroideries.
Wu also looked homeward for inspiration — not his own, but a home he’d like to have, one boasting the plush chairs of Jean Royère. At 22-grand on 1stdibs.com, the chair he rented for his look book shoot will be returned. But at least its sumptuous upholstery put a design bee in his bonnet. Motioning to a divine pink froth of a coat in shirred and long-hair fox, Wu said, “it’s my powder puff.”