Point of view has been a tricky thing for Maiyet, which has been definite in its brand values and unique vision since its inception, yet has struggled to crystallize anything substantial aesthetically. To solve that problem, the company hired a proper creative director in Declan Kearney, who’s worked at Cavalli, Jason Wu and Alexander Wang, where he was a design director. Resort was his first collection for Maiyet and the difference he made — for the better — was immediately obvious. He articulated his mission clearly: “Even though as a brand [Maiyet] reaches out to worldwide artisans, I felt it was my job to curate it as a collection that made sense in New York and find a home for each of the different crafts and techniques.”
Kearney shaped the collection around workwear-inspired tailoring — outerwear, blazers and suiting — that had a men’s wear sensibility but also a fresh softness. A blue suit with a shrunken jacket and cropped pants felt particularly on point and there were knit trenches and cardigan blazers to give the look a luxe lightness. The artisan angle was handled in a way that made it feel understandable on shibori scarves and on sleeves decorated with Bolivian hand-crocheted detail. Kearney clearly has experience with branding, which was obvious but not too overt, on the finishings of the tailored garments. He also has a way with fluid femininity, as seen in the bohemian maxis with cut-out backs and clever built-in bras.