For a relaxed resort presentation there was a lot of hoo-ha. Everyone knows that Marc Jacobs starts on time, pronto, blink and you miss it. Perhaps in anticipation of rush-hour transportation travails that didn’t materialize, several guests arrived 30 minutes or so early for his 9 a.m. show at his Mercer Street store. Jacobs himself was by the door chatting with Grace Coddington until he suddenly decided to round up his models and lead them down the block to the Mercer Hotel, where they would present privately to Anna Wintour. As it was, Anna and the parade met halfway, and all filed into the store where Marc staged an impromptu showing for the early arrivals.
Rather than engage in the kind of proverbial 180 for which he’s been both praised and vilified, Jacobs “thought the most surprising thing would be to start off where we left off [with fall],” he said. “But to move on, we took the embellishments, the trappings of femininity, the sort of polished thing, and then we let it come a little more undone.”
And a little more accessible, which is one of the calling cards of resort. Wanting to keep something of a moody-broody attitude, Jacobs limited his palette to black, white and red. He nodded to fall’s primary silhouette with a beautiful, newly lightened tweed coat over a full lamé skirt and crinoline, but more often narrowed the silhouette, whether in slim skirts paired with the chicest of sweatshirts or seductive sheaths. There was even a hint of Mod to a pair of mini coats, one red, one white. It all had ample surface action, whether the fabrics themselves, such as those airy tweeds and broderie anglaise, or the embellishments — embroideries, cabochons, tough-girl rivets and studs. As for the evening , Jacobs may have dubbed his black-on-white blooms “very sad flowers,” but his long-sleeved, off-the-shoulder column and artful, A-line-over-crinoline would light up any soiree.