Michael Kors hated geometry in high school. For resort he revisited the subject, finding a new affinity and far better results than his sophomore-year 68 average. Intentionally or otherwise, there was a bit of the math geek to his blazers — he’s bringing them back, baby — knife-pleated skirts and cropped pants. And when’s the last time you heard of a dickey (of the collar-only variety)? Throughout, he played black, white and camel off of “happy colors — acid green, aqua, geranium.”
Yet for all its girlish charm, this collection lost none of the typical Kors-ean chic, nor its luxury. His customer is a math geek who discovered some obscure algorithm that she developed into an Internet start-up that made her rich enough to commission Harry Potter-striped mufflers and hexagon intarsia coats in wildly indulgent mink. And Kors countered the structure of shantung and sturdy crepe with a lovely scarf-dressing story, including hexagon-print shirt looks with French cuffs left deliberately undone.
Accessories also got with the geometric program. Clutches, shoulder bags and chunky platforms were color-blocked with bravado. But ever the pragmatist, Kors knows that sometimes a mile-high shoe just won’t do. Thus, his flat, mannish slide. “I always love a shoe,” he said, “that feels like you’re running out of the house to get milk.”