Taking in Mary-Kate Olsen’s and Ashley Olsen’s tightly edited resort lineup brought to mind the heyday of Jil Sander. The clothes themselves are dissimilar, the Olsens’ sprung from a more relaxed place, perhaps reflective of a subconscious grounding in the kind of classic, tony American sportswear that reached its zenith at about the time the tiny-tot sisters were starting out in their first career. What is similar: the luxe minimalism, which the Olsens prefer to call “purity.” Like Sander, the most recent winners of the CFDA Award for Women’s Wear neither covet nor pretend to cater to a young customer, nor do they leap aboard bandwagons such as the current one for intense surface textures and decorations. They target a sophisticated woman who vastly prefers refined over raucous.
That woman will love resort, a collection of what could be called luxurious basics. While the surrounding racks featured a range of weights and shapes as befits the dual nature of the season, for their presentation the designers chose to focus on coat looks: mannish, dark gray topper over military-inspired jacket; pristine trench over trousers in mismatched whites; lean, putty pink duster over trim pantsuit; several inviting wrap coats. The takeaway was of a high-brow, pragmatic approach to day dressing. The one nod to evening: a long, full-cut shirtdress that moved with austere grandeur.