Affirming the direction of his first Nina Ricci runway show for fall, Guillaume Henry focused on texture and surface interest for resort as he worked delicate finishing more than embellishment and shapes. The deliberately simple offerings were the designer’s idea of something essential to an everyday wardrobe. “I don’t want the clothes to overshadow the woman,” Henry said. “The Ricci woman is revealed by the clothes, by a gesture.”
Masculine coats in chevron-patterned linen or silk “cloqué” in black or wisteria were worn over loose dresses with pockets to nonchalant effect. Frills, a classic element of the Ricci vocabulary, were evoked by the elasticized stitching on Liberty-style floral dresses or little nylon tops lined with silk georgette. Henry’s vision was evident in the details: The crinkled effect on a silk twill dress was repeated in the pleats of a holographic sequined rust-hued dress, a raw linen unlined coat was finished with silk chiffon, and silk and cotton tweed pleated skirts and matching jackets were constructed on an organza base to reveal the skin when moving.
Everything was soft and loose but neat and clean, as in the light tailoring of unlined jackets in Japanese wool worn over ultralong flared pants that elongated the silhouette. This season, Ricci added a full line of shoes produced with Italian manufacturer Iris; they followed the same simple and delicate aesthetic with a slingback pointy pump and cage sandals evoking classic elements of a chic wardrobe.