Roksanda Ilincic said resort is one of her favorite seasons because it’s so long, running from November until May. “You have to have a little of everything, and you can explore any season you feel like. There can be a lot of variety,” she said.
And there certainly was. The designer used the Forties as a springboard into a plush world of pattern, texture and signature plays on volume. She swapped her solid colors for abstract flower prints this season, patchworking them into silk twill Forties-style dresses with bows or zips at the front, and using them for wide-leg trousers or as the lining for jackets with oversize, sculpted bows on their bell sleeves.
The same flowers also appeared as delicate crocheted insets on long silk dresses, or as gossamer 3-D appliqués on a sheer organza or tulle versions. Offsetting all the airy textures were some military-inspired boiled wool coats with crocheted edges, blanket stitching on organza dresses and lots of rickrack around the high collars of fine-gauge knits, or the waists of Empire-line dresses.
As always, superfine leather — which Ilincic treats as a woven fabric — played a big role, as the skinny belts on dresses or in an olive leather coat with a yellow cross-hatch stitching.