Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne opted for the transitional approach for their first pre-collection for DKNY, in terms of ideas and the whole weather/lengthy sales season nature of the resort beast. “This collection is informed by the runway from last season; it’s kind of a trickle down/trail off,” Osborne said. “It’s not about throwing more ideas in the fire, but protecting and developing the [runway] ideas over the course of six months, as opposed to something entirely new every three months,” added Chow.
To that end, the lineup, loosely inspired by Martin Puryear, was very much set to the tune of the raw minimalism and statement streetwear that was the focus of the fall runway. The first look the designers showed during a preview was a slipdress under an exaggerated bomber with extralong sleeves and a ribbed waistband. Done in ivory, the silhouette was soft but strong, and a little tough — a tone echoed in more deconstructed slips and pinstripe pants; high-wasted pants worn with an airy hooded shirt, and logo sweatshirts.
Overall, the clothes had a cool ease, despite some of the outsize proportions. The same couldn’t be said for the white hybrid construction boots styled with them — though they anchored the looks in a slick but undeniably street mood.
