Gabriela Hearst wasn’t interested in resort as an interim season of filler styles. “We thought wear now, takeaway and evening,” she said during a preview. “I also wanted to be creative.” So she pushed new silhouettes within her steady language of modernist elegance, sport and exquisite fabrics, and yielded a beautiful collection of signatures and surprises. In terms of the former, Hearst progressed her shirting with a pinstriped silhouette with slightly folkloric sleeves and red herringbone embroidery on the stripes. Tailoring included a pair of nifty tapered pants with a paperbag waist that folded down to reveal a striped shirt lining. And takes on classic outerwear included a reversible trench with a Lady Di-inspired micro plaid. Sweaters and skirts done in freshly graphic navy and orange-red stripes were culled from the Palio races in Siena.
Just as elegant but more unexpected was the evening wear, much of which conveyed a sense of modernist arch. An ivory tea-length dress with short sleeves and a structured paperbag waist was embroidered in delicate pink-and-green abstract flowers. Separates — slim paperbag pants; camisoles with the perfect, tastefully sexy plunging neckline, and jackets cut with measured volume — in white silk organza had potential for an unconventional yet very chic bride.