Gabriela Hearst wasn’t interested in resort as an interim season of filler styles. “We thought wear now, takeaway and evening,” she said during a preview. “I also wanted to be creative.” So she pushed new silhouettes within her steady language of modernist elegance, sport and exquisite fabrics, and yielded a beautiful collection of signatures and surprises. In terms of the former, Hearst progressed her shirting with a pinstriped silhouette with slightly folkloric sleeves and red herringbone embroidery on the stripes. Tailoring included a pair of nifty tapered pants with a paperbag waist that folded down to reveal a striped shirt lining. And takes on classic outerwear included a reversible trench with a Lady Di-inspired micro plaid. Sweaters and skirts done in freshly graphic navy and orange-red stripes were culled from the Palio races in Siena.

 

Just as elegant but more unexpected was the evening wear, much of which conveyed a sense of modernist arch. An ivory tea-length dress with short sleeves and a structured paperbag waist was embroidered in delicate pink-and-green abstract flowers. Separates — slim paperbag pants; camisoles with the perfect, tastefully sexy plunging neckline, and jackets cut with measured volume — in white silk organza had potential for an unconventional yet very chic bride.

By  on June 2, 2016

Gabriela Hearst wasn’t interested in resort as an interim season of filler styles. “We thought wear now, takeaway and evening,” she said during a preview. “I also wanted to be creative.” So she pushed new silhouettes within her steady language of modernist elegance, sport and exquisite fabrics, and yielded a beautiful collection of signatures and surprises. In terms of the former, Hearst progressed her shirting with a pinstriped silhouette with slightly folkloric sleeves and red herringbone embroidery on the stripes. Tailoring included a pair of nifty tapered pants with a paperbag waist that folded down to reveal a striped shirt lining. And takes on classic outerwear included a reversible trench with a Lady Di-inspired micro plaid. Sweaters and skirts done in freshly graphic navy and orange-red stripes were culled from the Palio races in Siena.

 

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