Ever since he began, Toni Maticevski has been doing exaggerated volumes, big ruffles, slashed tops and cascading tiers — everything that seems to be “of now.” “I would ask myself ‘Am I pushing it too far?'” he said during his resort presentation. “But my private customers thrived on it.” Now, not only has fashion caught up with the Australian-based designer but buyers have, too. His label is in 90 stores worldwide. “People get me now,” Maticevski said.
What’s not to get, though? The beautiful Balenciaga references, the old-world silhouettes offered in techno fabrics. Some can argue that Maticevski favors tricks, or too many elements: a top that features multiple ruffles, a folding detail and an asymmetric hem. But he offered it in solid black or white, and paired it with monochromatically, so as to not overcharge the eye. The collection also included a memorable waxed linen trench with Neoprene sleeve details, big sculptural gowns, draped mock-neck cuts and origami bodices, all the sort of inventive items that make people ask: “Who designed that?”