Narciso Rodriguez derived the coolly arch attitude of his resort collection from Richard Avedon portraits. “We used the gesture of these women, the depth and the characters and made them a little more deconstructed and soft,” he said during a preview. It was easy to imagine an Avedon swan of 2016 wearing Rodriguez’s black and white bias slip gown with a spliced effect based on the lines of bias seaming, or an ivory matte silk shantung gown cut with a minimal, modernist couture hand.
Rodriguez noted that the lineup included a much bigger evening focus than usual: It’s part of his “mission” to upscale, elevate and distinguish his product. “There’s so much stuff out there. We get a response to things that are desirable, unique and useable and timeless — and made out of beautiful fabrics,” said Rodriguez. Hear, hear.
That philosophy extended to daywear too, with Rodriguez expanding his palette beyond his mainstays of black and white to include berry, blush, brown and blue. There were inconspicuously sexy, fluid dresses and tunics that showed a peek of the rib cage through the arm hole, bodycon knits and a boyfriend sweater that gently hugged a woman’s shape with slight hourglass seaming.