Peter Copping took a patchwork approach to his resort collection for Oscar de la Renta — literally and figuratively. “It’s about patchworking fabrics, ideas and textures together,” he said during a preview of the lineup, which included mixed tweeds suits in dusty pink, patchworked floral embroideries on a merino cardigan and graphic floral jacquard strips neatly paneled on a shift dress.
The jigsaw-mix idea gave Copping license to explore a range of motifs — florals, exotic jacquards, graphic lace, crochet and Sixties glamour — within a lineup that had great range, thus serving the resort’s vast selling season. “What does a resort collection mean?” Copping said. “It can be very ‘buy-now-wear-now’ in November through to things that feel much more resort-resort.” To his latter point, there was a sweeping white crêpe halter gown with a dégradé garden print. For winter months, there was a navy-and-white leopard jacquard coat embroidered with black-and-white mink pom-poms. Some of the freshest looks came in filmy black-and-white lace and a parachute taffeta dress that turned a traditionally dowdy fabric quite breezy.
Back to Copping’s question about what resort means — it means real clothes meant to sell. The collection was a commercial enterprise, comprised of classic, straightforward yet highly elegant silhouettes dressed up in special treatments.