Designer Jenni Väänänen’s second preseason collection for Samuji was built around the concepts of ease, refinement and sustainability. “I tried to work with fabrics that make no sense to be washed after every use, like linen — and wool, which cleans itself when you let it rest in fresh air,” Väänänen noted in a press release.
This fabric-driven approach helped Väänänen discover the natural qualities of the materials, which in turn dictated part of the design process. A white linen series, for instance, featured frayed edges — the result of the designer feeling fabric swatches and thinking how beautifully the linen weave would come apart. Subtle fringed or pleated details recurred throughout, giving minimal silhouettes an elevated quality, both literally and figuratively — most successfully on double-breasted coats and wide-leg culottes.
But the prints that Väänänen incorporated didn’t feel out of place: water lilies on a bohemian dress, abstract grass prints and ocean waves appeared on a sleepwear-inspired top-and-pant combo. It wasn’t hard to imagine the pieces working for both the office and a seaside getaway.