Sonia Rykiel’s resort show doubled as an inauguration of sorts for the label’s four-month-old store on Madison Avenue, where creative director Julie de Libran hosted a small presentation. The New York boutique shares the same library motif as the Sonia Rykiel flagship on Paris’ Boulevard Saint Germain des Prés — a constant source of inspiration for the collections. This time, de Libran wanted to infuse that Parisian urban attitude with a bit of Provençal spirit. “I have this South of France side, too, very country, and I wanted pre-spring to be more about the gypsy side,” said de Libran.
The collection was one of her strongest and most cohesive in a few seasons, a masterful mix of countryside free spirit and city chick. Peasant blouses with exaggerated blouson sleeves were layered with undone corsets. Mannish tailored blazers were embroidered with sparkly trim and worn with big Bermuda shorts. Knit pleated dresses were cut loose with drop waists for a sense of active ease, and bared-shoulder dresses — in cheery mixed floral-printed stripes, and banded black embroidered with gold gypsy coins — felt fresh and sexy. Printed headscarves, Creole earrings and charm pendants accentuated the collection’s chic eclecticism.
It might have been shown in New York City, but it was French through-and-through.