“To be modern is to be free,” said Chitose Abe as she presented her resort line for Sacai in a Paris showroom. She was talking about her borderless approach, which merged the utilitarian shapes of Nineties sportswear with folkloric touches such as Mexican ponchos and Afghan belt detailing.


Hoodies were spliced with embroidered organdy panels, while Windbreakers with chunky zippers came overlaid with panels of tweed. Oversize silhouettes ruled with items such as denim jacquard smocks, a beige raincoat-cum-parka and a fringed multicolored poncho worn over a green fishnet dress.


Decorative effects added a feminine twist to the sporty silhouettes. Abe worked a Hawaiian flower print into a yellow-and-blue lace and reinterpreted a crochet patchwork quilt as a colorful print on lace and chiffon.

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