David Koma treaded on dangerous ground for his latest resort outing: the Georgia-born, London-based designer experimented with bold embellishments, from feathers to Swarovski crystals and mirrored plexiglass and added flashes of neon to his color palette.
He embroidered feathers at the slits of his signature miniskirts and the ends of body-hugging dresses to create a sense of movement, while rounded metal-framed plexiglass was used all over cutout dresses, jumpsuits or midi skirts in various forms and sizes. Elsewhere, embellishment was layered, like in the case of a fuchsia dress featuring softer pink crystals on top of the mirrored plexiglass.
Piling on embellishments could definitely risk looking too heavy, but in Koma’s hands the pieces looked modern and highly desirable.
He maintained a sense of modernity through graphic motifs, inspired by the circular art of Sophie Taeuber-Arp. These came in the form of evenly placed, rounded black satin buttons or plexi mirrors, rounded cutouts and subtle curved hems. The fabrications in the range were also in line with the range’s graphic direction; among the highlights was a ruffled dress in silk tulle featuring flocked polka dots.
Koma also had the traditional notion of a cruise collection in mind and wanted to create pieces that are light, easy to travel with and embrace the spirit of summer. He achieved this by incorporating sportier scuba fabrics in the lineup, ensuring that the feathers on the dresses were removable to allow for multiple functions and staying true to the clean, straight lines he is best known for.