Known as an art lover and avid collector, Erdem Moralioglu used the works of some of his favorite female artists as the primary reference point for his latest resort collection.

From the surrealist paintings of Sylvia Fein to the abstract collages of the German Dada artist Hannah Höch, Moralioglu was drawn to the odd, clashing motifs that defined the artists’ works.

He adopted the same surrealist approach when it came to the fabrics he developed for his latest outing; a striking, visually impactful mix of floral jacquards, hand-embroidered brocades and chiffons. Among the highlights was a digitally painted velvet fabric that incorporated the designer’s signature floral patterns with large bird motifs and mirrored Hoch’s famous collages.

He was also drawn to the colorful yet undone way women like Höch and Fein used to dress and sought to create a tension in the collection between the rich, heavily embellished fabrics and the silhouettes, which were loosened up here with a focus on fluid, bias-cut dresses.

The contrasts continued throughout the collection adding a touch of modernity to the range: androgynous tailoring was done in dark floral jacquards, eveningwear was matched to laid-back flat mules and quirky details such as an oversize chiffon bow were added to the elegant floral-embroidered dresses the brand is best known for.

Daywear was also more apparent in the range, as the designer is thinking about catering to his customer around the clock. It came in the form of ruffled knits, pleated midi skirts and printed silk pajamalike sets, staying in line with the brand’s ultrafeminine aesthetic.

“I love the idea of tension between something that’s very done up, very structured but also kind of undone. It’s a mixture of things…I was thinking about my woman from the moment she wakes up to when she goes to bed,” Moralioglu said.