Lucie and Luke Meier silently debuted at Jil Sander with women’s resort and men’s summer collections, which were simply shown during private appointments at the brand’s Milan headquarters. The designers will have to wait until September to take a bow together on the Jil Sander coed runway.
Instead of embracing a transformative approach, the couple tried to reimagine the signature Jil Sander aesthetic rooted in a rigorous elegance. This was updated with a fresh touch, which revealed connections with Luke Meier’s urban OAMC men’s line.
The women’s and men’s lineups were strongly linked not only through the shared influences — sometimes Asian, sometimes folk, sometimes contemporary and metropolitan — but also through the use of the same fabrics and techniques. The overall result was coherent and cohesive.
The fluid silhouettes of cotton poplin shirts and dresses cinched at the waist with obi-like corset belts, as well as coats revealing pleated details and unfinished edges, were juxtaposed against sharper designs. For example the men’s suits with boxy jackets featured structured silhouettes.
Technical accents emerged in both collections with hooded parkas, shirts and bombers crafted from nylon, a plastic material, as well as natural fabrics treated with special techniques to obtain unexpected, glossy surfaces.
Leather and kangaroo fur were used for trenches and coats embellished with practical zippers and padded inserts.
In their first efforts for the brand, the Meiers developed a charming tension between modernity and tradition, heritage and innovation.
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