Lucie and Luke Meier silently debuted at Jil Sander with women’s resort and men’s summer collections, which were simply shown during private appointments at the brand’s Milan headquarters. The designers will have to wait until September to take a bow together on the Jil Sander coed runway.

Instead of embracing a transformative approach, the couple tried to reimagine the signature Jil Sander aesthetic rooted in a rigorous elegance. This was updated with a fresh touch, which revealed connections with Luke Meier’s urban OAMC men’s line.

The women’s and men’s lineups were strongly linked not only through the shared influences — sometimes Asian, sometimes folk, sometimes contemporary and metropolitan — but also through the use of the same fabrics and techniques. The overall result was coherent and cohesive.

The fluid silhouettes of cotton poplin shirts and dresses cinched at the waist with obi-like corset belts, as well as coats revealing pleated details and unfinished edges, were juxtaposed against sharper designs. For example the men’s suits with boxy jackets featured structured silhouettes.

Technical accents emerged in both collections with hooded parkas, shirts and bombers crafted from nylon, a plastic material, as well as natural fabrics treated with special techniques to obtain unexpected, glossy surfaces.

Leather and kangaroo fur were used for trenches and coats embellished with practical zippers and padded inserts.

In their first efforts for the brand, the Meiers developed a charming tension between modernity and tradition, heritage and innovation.

See More From the Resort 2018 Collections:

Fausto Puglisi Resort 2018: New, deconstructed silhouettes were introduced in the designer’s resort collection, which spanned from feminine chic to tomboy.
Jill Stuart Resort 2018: Jill Stuart touched back to her roots with a fresh, fun and easy resort collection.
Nomia Resort 2018: Yara Flinn’s resort lineup focused on slight contrasts of the masculine and feminine in soft-yet-manipulated fabrics.
Creatures of Comfort Resort 2018: Jade Lai brought Twenties beach pajamas into the 21st century, with some looks having a few steps above ath-leisure and a nice tomboy balance.
Sportmax Resort 2018: Sportmax looked to its archives for its collection combining sartorial and sporty references.
Roksanda Resort 2018: A big fan of art, Roksanda Ilincic took cues from Seventies tapestries and embedded handcrafted elements into garments for resort.
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