For her first resort collection, young designer Claudia Li toyed with the fleeting memory of dreams for a confident collection steeped in tailoring and dramatic shapes. “When you dream and wake up the next day you don’t usually remember every single thing, but you remember flashes of colors or a character or an object,” she said during a walk-through. “So we started to play around with the idea of recording what we dreamt about.”

Fragments of her dreams triggered early stages of the design process — a nurse’s uniform inspired the color pink and apron-like shapes, and a lady in red the bold use of that color. She dived into the surrealist work of Joe Webb and Salvador Dalí, referencing their work lightly, as in Webb’s “Absent Minded” painting for the remaining color story and Dalí’s “The Persistence of Memory” for decorative buttons made of wood and metal on clothing, earrings and shoes.

Li tends to play with volume, this season accenting tailored outerwear, dresses and shirting with balloon sleeves that fall down for extra drama. Shirting, additionally, continued on big collars and exaggerated cuffs. There was a quality of controlled deconstruction in the seaming of asymmetric panels on little cami tops and dresses. But she toned down the conceptual offerings this season and offered up wrinkle-free jersey dresses, boxy apron-like wrapped tops, and comfortable-yet-chic tracksuits to diversify her range.

See More From the Resort 2018 Collections:

Martha Medeiros Resort 2018: Martha Medeiro’s handmade Brazilian lace collection drew from the arid landscapes of the designer’s native region of Sertão. 

Elie Tahari Resort 2018: Elie Tahari designed his heavily embellished resort collection with the mind-set of traveling and escapism. 

Sass & Bide Resort 2018: Sophia Berman’s resort collection referenced Casa Batllo, a fantastically decorated home by Antoni Gaudí, to inject a Spanish flare into resort.

Naeem Khan Resort 2018: Naeem Khan’s resort collection was an ode to New York’s Botanical Garden and Miami’s beachside. 

Paule Ka Resort 2018: Alithia Spuri-Zampetti gave a bohemian twist to the resort collection with in-depth experimentation with textiles.

Nina Ricci Resort 2018: Guillaume Henry opted for a commedia dell’arte theme and also widened the collection’s price range.