Paul Andrew proudly showed his second collection for Salvatore Ferragamo at a space in TriBeCa. The installation focused mostly on shoes, which are historically at the core of the late Salvatore Ferragamo himself as well as the brand. “I wanted to reestablish the fact that we own certain codes of this house, which maybe people did not realize these codes were born here,” Andrew said. For starters, he explained that he looked at more than 15,000 pairs of shoes in the archives. “Going through one by one, there was an overarching theme that I noticed — so many of the shoes have flowers as a theme. So I thought it would be fun to make this season about florals,” he said.
And flowers he delivered. Andrew went on a photographic expedition to the London flower markets and came back with images of what would become the motifs and prints for resort. The floral prints were seen most prominently on single-toe pumps or as the ankle wraps on patent leather sandals.
“There’s a spontaneity and energy to these graphic flowers printed on silk but when you wrap and tie them the print becomes almost abstract and a softness emerges,” he said in his collection notes.
Elsewhere, florals were also woven into the textured motif of a rib knit Lurex bootie and as part of a laser cut design on a strappy sandal. Alternatively, the bloom theme also appeared more figuratively via peony-inspired grosgrain bowed pumps.
Andrew also highlighted the F-wedge as another important house code he has set out to rework this season as a tie front sling back, a sleek satin evening mule and performance sandals with ridged edging.
Handbags and some of the clothes depicting a springy floral palette and — in the case of some tunics and leather clutches — actual floral motifs were also displayed, perfectly complimenting the wide array of footwear.