Sonia Rykiel founded her house in 1968, making 2018 the brand’s 50th anniversary. During a preview of the resort collection, Lola Rykiel, the founder’s granddaughter and the company’s head of public relations, explained that the label will be celebrating all year. Fashion-wise, the year begins with resort.
Julie de Libran designed the collection to illustrate the Sonia Rykiel woman today, steeped in 50 years of house history, and she has become a perfect example of that woman. After a few years at brand’s creative helm, she’s gradually made her aesthetic voice stronger, more clear without drowning out the Rykiel codes. Her collection was a semiautobiographical story of a Parisian woman who moves to California, basks in the West Coast culture and sun and returns to the Left Bank full of new influences.
French anemones were worked on black corduroy tailoring, embroidered on boho tie-neck blouses and worn as necklaces. Rykiel’s signature stripes were reworked Cali-style as retro sporty rainbow stripes on surf-inspired T-shirts and paints, and as a thick mélange crocheted dress. American workwear references came in structured oversized cotton shirts, with a little French ruffle around the neck and wide-leg culottes. Nothing was purely American or purely French. The clothes were a balanced fusion of both attitudes that made each feel fresh and current.