Thom Browne’s women’s collection was born directly out of his men’s line. The two are always connected, but some seasons it’s more obvious than others. Resort was one of those occasions. “For me, pre-collections are about taking advantage of what people are getting to know me for, and that’s specifically tailoring,” said Browne, presenting his collection in his newly christened stand-alone women’s store on Hudson Street in New York. To say some of the looks borrowed from the boys would be understating it. A gray blazer over a white shirt dress worn with a gray tie was pretty literal. Ditto a khaki trench over a gray suit with Browne’s famous cropped pants. His classic tailoring makes a strong unisex look.
Where he more obviously feminized, things got more fun as he introduced color, kitsch and incredible fabrications — all house signatures in addition to tailoring. There were fabulous tweeds — ultra light with colorful bits of denim and fur worked in — on jackets, skirts and coats. Browne tweaked Japanese school uniforms in bright madras and madcap layers, and played with preppy lawn sport motifs. A graphic lace, delicate pearl embroidery on a salt-washed cotton blazer, and gold threadwork on a denim shift were done in the shape of tennis rackets. A bomber jacket with red-white-and-blue striped trim came in filmy white organza. Wardrobe staples — bombers, fur coats, blazers, Bermudas and pique polo dresses with pleats — became novelty luxury items through impeccable fabric development and details. “I want almost to reintroduce the idea of American sportswear at a higher level,” said Browne, holding up a dress with a pique polo shirt top and pleated skirt. “There have been so many years of American sportswear being priced down to a [mass] level. I want to elevate it.”
See more from the 2018 Resort Collections:
Carolina Herrera Resort 2018: For resort, Carolina Herrera explored the language of flowers, both literally and otherwise.
Victoria Beckham Resort 2018: Victoria Beckham’s resort 2018 lineup was a true trans-seasonal collection of refined clothes for everyday.
Mugler Resort 2018: David Koma imagined clothes for a modern, sexy superhero for Mugler’s 2018 resort collection.
Lilly Pulitzer Resort 2018: Lilly Pulitzer is known for having resortwear 365 days a year, so for resort 2018, the collection was based around living in that Palm Beach paradise.
Prabal Gurung Resort 2018: The works of London-based Moroccan photographer Hassan Hajjaj informed Prabal Gurung’s resort collection.