“It’s the 18th century meets the Seventies,” an elated Peter Dundas said after the runway debut of his eponymous label on Sunday.
Standing at the top of the staircase at the Hôtel de Gesvres, a jewel box of a private residence in Paris, Dundas was greeting well-wishers when he was suddenly swept up by Evangelo Bousis, his partner in life and business, who clinched him in a joyful embrace.
The collection bore many Dundas hallmarks: corset bodices, asymmetric trains and vivid shots of color. A hedonistic streak ran throughout, from ornately embroidered caftans to thigh-grazing body-con dresses in patchworks of sheer lace and patterned fil coupé (a fluorescent pink taffeta baby doll was fit for a latter-day Marie Antoinette.)
Georgia May Jagger worked her curves in a denim bustier dress with a plunging neckline and embroidered with colored blooms. Natasha Poly vamped it up in an inky lampshade minidress with a cascading black taffeta train. It wasn’t always in the best possible taste, but that was kind of the point: The Dundas girl is there to get noticed.
The designer, who previously helmed Roberto Cavalli, Emilio Pucci and Emanuel Ungaro, said although the collection was ready-to-wear, it was influenced by haute couture.
“Inspiration comes from the Baroque, the height of aesthetic indulgence — but although it is all precious, I wanted a new sense of ease that feels modern,” he said in his show notes.
Dundas labeled the line resort, but said he wouldn’t stick to a traditional show schedule. Instead, he plans to partner with key retailers to offer capsule collections, as well as selling directly online.
The debut Dundas collection with launch exclusively on Moda Operandi on July 7, with an accessibly priced line for Farfetch to follow later in the year.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Paris to Honor Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel Couture Show: Mayor Anne Hidalgo is to decorate the couturier with a Grand Vermeil medal, the city’s highest distinction.
Paris Couture Gains Extra Day as Confidence Returns: France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture has welcomed five brands as guest members on this season’s schedule.
Tory Burch Supports Proenza Schouler at Paris Show: Caroline de Maigret and Gaia Repossi were also among the guests.
Couture Week Tells Its Stories on Instagram: The French fashion federation reiterates its social initiatives with a cadre of 11 influential guest posters capturing the mood of a week of couture shenanigans.