For his first collection as creative director of Emanuel Ungaro, Marco Colagrossi channeled classic house codes with floral prints and flashes of signature fuchsia pink. The designer was inspired by a young Nastassja Kinski, the former face of the label’s Senso perfume.
“What I like about Emanuel Ungaro, who is the master of all this body of work, is the sense of quintessential hedonism,” he said, noting that Paris remains under threat from terrorist attacks. “We are all under pressure and we’re getting used to it. So fashion for me, it has to release the pressure and it doesn’t have to be taken so seriously.”
There was an Eighties vibe to items like a floral bustier dress with a puffball skirt, or a ruched minidress with an asymmetric train. But Colagrossi noted that where the original Ungaro dresses were stiff — “crunch, crunch” — his updated versions feel soft to the touch and are easy to throw into a suitcase.
Conscious of catering to women of different ages, he offered everything from sheer caftans or sweeping maxidresses for a beach vacation, to a sharp-shouldered black coat with fuchsia silk lining and split sleeves for an after-work cocktail.
Standouts included a cream and pink pajama stripe suit with a skinny jacket and extra wide pants that owed a clear debt to Colagrossi’s time at Giorgio Armani, where he proved he is more than capable of channeling another designer’s vision.
The latest in a revolving door of designers at Ungaro, he appears to be tackling the job with a pragmatic vision that could be key to putting the label back on the map.
See More From the Resort 2018 Collections:
Cynthia Rowley Resort 2018: Cynthia Rowley’s latest lineup is all about mastering the art of the long weekend getaway.
Claudia Li Resort 2018: The collection drew from the designer’s own dreams and the surrealist work of Joe Webb and Salvador Dalí.
Stella Jean Resort 2018: Country and tropical motifs were incorporated in this collection, focused on very feminine silhouettes.
Vivetta Resort 2018: Vivetta Ponti introduced edgier, more mature silhouettes for resort.
Martha Medeiros Resort 2018: Martha Medeiro’s handmade Brazilian lace collection drew from the arid landscapes of the designer’s native region of Sertão.
Sass & Bide Resort 2018: Sophia Berman’s resort collection referenced Casa Batllo, a fantastically decorated home by Antoni Gaudí, to inject a Spanish flare into resort.