For Nina Ricci’s resort collection, creative director Guillaume Henry gleaned inspiration from the commedia dell’arte (think Columbine and Pierrot), a theme he had already touched upon in the last looks of his fall 2017 show.
“For me, it emphasizes an idea of elegance and romanticism,” said the designer, adding he envisaged images of harlequins from the Eighties that were “delicate, with a lot of poetry and very couture at the same time.” Such references were particularly evident in the two-toned diamond-patterned jackets, bicolored parachute dress, exaggerated silhouettes with rounded shoulders and pom-pom details dotting shoes.
The line, developed as a full wardrobe, included classic elements of the Ricci vocabulary, like frills, body shirts and lace. Colors ran the gamut from orange to pastel blue to black, while fabrics included cloqué, crêpe de chine and silk. But the diversity didn’t end there.
“It’s the first time that we develop easy-to-buy items, but still in the continuity of our vocabulary,” said Henry, referring, for instance, to the house’s debut pair of jeans, pieces in jersey and in cotton, such as blouses and double-faced coats — which go for about 20 percent less than the rest of the line. “We really wanted our price range to be a little wider, and to offer our aesthetic to a [larger] audience.
“For me, Nina Ricci is L’Air du Temps,” he said, referring to both the house’s iconic perfume and to the French expression meaning to be “in the spirit of the times.” And the collection was indeed that. Some standout pieces included a slouchy trench with cutout shoulders and cinched cuffs; a wide-shouldered, fluffy yellow marabou jacket, and sexy heels with straps spiraling up past the ankle, like snakes.
See More From the Resort 2018 Collections:
Fausto Puglisi Resort 2018: New, deconstructed silhouettes were introduced in the designer’s resort collection, which spanned from feminine chic to tomboy.
Jill Stuart Resort 2018: Jill Stuart touched back to her roots with a fresh, fun and easy resort collection.
Nomia Resort 2018: Yara Flinn’s resort lineup focused on slight contrasts of the masculine and feminine in soft-yet-manipulated fabrics.
Creatures of Comfort Resort 2018: Jade Lai brought Twenties beach pajamas into the 21st century, with some looks having a few steps above ath-leisure and a nice tomboy balance.
Sportmax Resort 2018: Sportmax looked to its archives for its collection combining sartorial and sporty references.
Roksanda Resort 2018: A big fan of art, Roksanda Ilincic took cues from Seventies tapestries and embedded handcrafted elements into garments for resort.