Riccardo Tisci has been refining his vision for Burberry with each collection, and for pre-spring 2020 his woman has a multiplicity of moods: There’s the bourgeois lady, in her animal or fish print silks, faux fur and chain-handle bags and sharply tailored jackets with soft edges.
Alongside the elegant signora is the London kid, dressed in a Burberry football scarf, worn as a shrug over a denim jacket, or the punk in a short leather dress with fat silver grommets.
Tisci said he started designing the collection with “the breadth of the attitude of Burberry in mind, and this idea of uniforms. I wanted to start to play with more extreme versions of the classic and fashion sides that I’ve been focusing on with my work here.”
Tisci referenced “chic trench coats, super elegant fluid jersey gowns and sharp tailoring, as well as relaxed washed denim, crystal cocktail dresses and down jackets,” along with evolved versions of the bags and shoe styles that he introduced when he joined the house last year.
The handsome collection, like his previous ones, had something for everyone — mothers, daughters, fathers and sons, with standouts including silk blouses with cape details around the shoulders and down the sleeves, prints ranging from deer to octopus to python on everything from puffers to pussy bow blouses; tailored jackets with cropped; elasticized sleeves; a shirtdresses with knife pleat skirts, and faux furs galore.
Then again, Mrs. Burberry doesn’t always feel ladylike and buttoned-up. For those moments when a more casual breeze blows in from the street there were puffer jackets and capes, some with a bright graffiti print, a terrific houndstooth coat and “LDN” patched onto the front in bright red varsity style letters and shrugs made from Burberry football scarves.
Eveningwear was fluid — and dramatic. It was made from hand-linked chainmail, wide, braided layers of jersey knit, or Chantilly lace spelling out the TB monogram and adorning the bottom of a slipdress.