Erdem Moralioglu wove together references from Seventies’ Italian cinema, the Belle Epoque and his fascination with how different decades have interpreted history for this dreamlike collection full of bows, floral patterns and flourishes. If that all sounds too overblown, it wasn’t. Moralioglu tempered the froth with printed puffer jackets, sleek Forties-style dresses and neat, tailored suits with flared trousers, giving this collection a practical, contemporary edge.
For every printed dress with an overblown bow, there was another, similar one with a more subtle tie at the neck while tailored coats and belted dresses counterbalanced long, flowing, more romantic styles. Prints were based on big silk scarves the designer had developed over the years while shoes were flat with big bows, lending an innocence to this collection.
Moralioglu says he loves designing resort and thinking about the ways his looks can be worn all year. There was certainly plenty here to love 12 months of the year, especially those waisted dresses and coats with subtle bows, polka dots, ruffles or little pouf sleeves, a historical, cultural mash-up, Erdem-style.