Over the last few seasons, Lela Rose has presented lively, elaborate presentations ranging from a “Roseminster Dog Show” for fall to bridal garden parties and spring parades filled with confections, cocktails and smiling attendees. Even though the designer opted for a quieter setting for resort, an appointment in her showroom, her clothes radiated the same flirtiness and fun-loving energy.
Rose’s collections tend to start with color and fabrics; this season’s premise included bold pink and red with contrasting black and white. From there, a Sixties spirit evolved along with an expanded palette of blues. Standouts in the collection came voluminous and lightweight. A “little red riding hood cape gone totally uptown chic,” or floor length gown. In addition to lace offerings, like a delicate color-blocked frock lined with a cream-colored slip with matching lace edges, adding a play of density and sheerness beautifully along the body. Even Rose’s raw-edge bows on a pink and red cocktail dress felt refined. Shot within a grandiose, uptown “Old world men’s club” — as Rose referred to it — the clothes beamed easy sophistication along the grand staircase and ornate marble fireplaces.
Textural details ran throughout in the form of new embroidered popcorn knits, a laser-cut high-waisted A-line felt skirt, floral jacquard or embroidered shift dresses. A graphic gray and blue woven topcoat with ric rac trim — inspired by a vintage sofa which Rose stumbled upon — also made for a stellar addition to the lineup. Overall, the designer’s fresh pops of color and graphic elements gave modern appeal to the more modest shapes.