It’s been a full fashion calendar year since Francesco Fucci came on as creative director at Theory. He was tasked with refining the sportswear brand, and has done so beautifully with a sense of romance drawn from his European upbringing. Resort marked the first time his focus turned to the energy of New York, and really honing in on the brand’s workwear roots for women who lead dynamic lives.
He wanted the clothes to reflect what you might find in a corporate office environment — workwear, after all, should be clothes meant for work — in a utilitarian language with bright sporty touches. He played on balances of classic and futuristic, men’s and women’s wear, in crisp and minimal silhouettes like shirting, trousers with sharp lines, and sleek angular tailoring. Fundamental Theory ingredients like suiting and pants maintained a clear boyish thread. “As a European, for me this is very modernist American,” Fucci said during a private appointment, adding: “It feels very New York in my imagination.”
He made sure to offset what he deemed “thoughtful boringness” with cheeky touchstones. An urban parka, for instance, featured a built-in sash so you could sling the garment over your shoulder when it gets too hot. And the collection was an exercise in color combinations, blending neutrals with playful colors, as seen in a chic camel leather coat over a baby blue shirt, and a taupe robe coat over burnt orange pants. He shot the collection with similar humor, adding in props like a coke can and office phone with typical unbothered New York facial expressions.
He stated the collection’s New York-filter best with the following analogy: “I love the romance and the poetry, and it’ll always be a part of my process in making the clothes, but I wanted to highlight the energy of the city. It may be less classic music and more electronic parties.”