Zac Posen has had a whirlwind month. He’s currently in Japan celebrating 40 years of Brooks Brothers operations there, before jetting off to Hong Kong and Shanghai for various projects. He dressed a host of guests for the Met Gala, among them Nina Dobrev and Jourdan Dunn, in 3-D-printed “glass” dresses, for which he’s already fielded exhibition requests.
During the look book shoot for resort at his showroom last week, the designer didn’t discount the possibility of incorporating such 3-D-printed elements into his main line. After all, he’s an engineer in his own right — albeit of a different medium — creating garments at the intersection of design and fantasy.
His lineup was heavy on gowns that balanced drama with elegance. Though there were many, it wasn’t repetitive. An array of color, shoulder, sleeve and neck details provided plenty of interest. A black wide-collar silk faille gown featured seaming that perfectly accentuated the body. A pink moire number that could double as a coat had dramatic ruffles as elongated sleeves, while a lightly embroidered green dress kept the volume higher up with short puff sleeves. There was even a sporty accent to a voluminous ombre taffeta gown through paracord ties.
There were also options for glam vixens, traditional princesses and women with minimalist inclinations. Model Lindsey Wixson interpreted all those through self-styling that allowed for a fresh perspective.
Posen noted the collection leaned into more softness, too, and pieces that transition from day to evening. As resort has the longest shelf life, there was a full story of fabrications and styles in addition to gowns. “You build on things that are working,” he said, “with new bodies, new shapes, new engineering.”
He expanded on daywear with big cotton shirtdresses, seasonless knitwear, and surprisingly lightweight stretch jacquard, among other easy fabrications. Tailoring was a standout, and included chic suiting, a great pair of trousers with notch pleats down the front, and silky blazer-shirts with asymmetric collars.