For resort, Tuomas Merikoski added subtle punk references to an uplifting lineup. It felt extra light this season even if the collection was named “Kaaos” — Finnish for “chaos.”
Merikoski caters to style-conscious consumers, with what he calls luxury daywear, offering them familiar silhouettes that have been slightly twisted into the Aalto universe. Something a bit odd: that extra pleat running down the leg of a pair of jeans — a house signature; a beige suit jacket with one, bright yellow lapel, or a white T-shirt with one sleeve made of a stylized eyeball-like pattern — carried on sideways across the chest, in an uneven pleat.
Suit coats were diverse and interesting — including an assertive, sharp-shouldered option built from a new style of pleat, or a softer rendition with a sash knotted at the waist.
He thought about the punk era in London and how it evolved into a glamorous party scene, which brought a bourgeois touch into the mix — which is how much of the clothing felt: handsome, yet original.
An extra strap on trousers was meant to evoke the chains that looped off a waist. Also keeping things humble, he included thick, twill fabrics alongside lightweight cottons and nylon, and channeled influence from field workers of Latin America for a bob hat with a wide brim and built-in scarf to fasten it against the wind.