Martin Grant was in a practical mood for resort, channeling workwear and military influences with a collection rich in outerwear options, from a flecked tweed coat with oversize lapels to the filmiest of navy trenchcoats.

Lest things get too literal, he had a little fun with armholes, sliding them down the body to create a cocoon-shaped back. The special sleeve treatment appeared on everything from a beige bomber jacket to a shearling “pod” — a cross between a cape and gilet.

In line with previous seasons, Grant offered his and hers suits, ranging from a Seventies-style cream cotton linen version with wide-leg pants to another in a thick turmeric-colored jersey — as comfortable as a jogging suit.

The designer also provided glimpses of his more flamboyant side. Dresses featured balloon sleeves or asymmetric hems, while a saffron-colored jumpsuit came with a single jutting sleeve. “I always have a David Bowie moment. I think that was it this season,” Grant said with a smile.

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