With his second runway outing during the Paris couture shows — the first was two years ago — Australian designer Toni Maticevski stayed true to his structural ethos, intentionally blurring the boundaries between his couture and resort pieces so the observer struggled to tell them apart.
Taking moths and butterflies as one of his themes — notably their metamorphosis and the way they are attracted to a flame — he draped and built his chrysalis-like shapes, encasing the body.
His structured and draped tailoring curled up around the face like flower petals — a recurrent theme in Maticevski’s designs. Voluminous ruffles like intricately woven cocoons sheathed several more dramatic looks.
Embroidered panels like moths’ wings fluttered on the backs of gowns in black and white, just one of the intentionally clashing patterns — a rarity for the designer — Maticevski built into the collection. In the same register, he mixed animal motifs, including leopard butterflies and zebra moths.
The metallic glitter of several looks, including draped tailoring and gowns in burgundy or black or, in a more extreme manifestation, with panels and ruffles of aluminum foil-coated translucent silk, suggested the attraction of a torch at night.