Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, whiz kids of the Paris fashion scene, offered a graceful and inventive Nina Ricci lineup that played on shapes. Using a clean palette as they concentrated on the silhouettes, the colors were refreshing: bright flashes of orange, yellow and aqua blue, set alongside ivory, white and beige.
“We wanted to keep the focus on the shape,” said Herrebrugh, noting the lack of patterns for their second installment of the brand reboot. The decision felt wise; clearing the decks of any distraction allowed for a full appreciation of the cuts. These included voluminous sleeves on a bright blue blouse; tailored coats that ballooned out in the back, and a puff of a ruffle on the front of an airy, white silk shirt — evoking that timeless brand symbol: the doves atop the L’Air du Temps perfume bottle.
“We’ve been working with some techniques,” Herrebrugh said.
“To exaggerate the female shapes,” Botter chimed in. They pointed to a tweed coat that looks straight in the front but jets out in the back, noting they gravitate toward sculptural cuts, while keeping things light.
Some structures were carried over from last season, slightly reined in to make them more wearable, and they aimed for a more feminine touch. It was very feminine indeed — but handsomely so, thanks to an undercurrent of masculinity, particularly in the cuts of the jackets.
“Nina” was the signature — meant to be youthful on its own — applied with tone-on-tone lettering or on the underside of a collar, including a classically cut trenchcoat made of scuba material.
Completing the outfits were hats — wide brimmed in white wool felt with an elegant flair, or bright orange elongated raffia hats that can be pulled over the eyes, adding an air of mystery to the new Nina — the new girl in town who everyone is eager to hang out with.