How do goths do resort? Hint: There isn’t a lot of color involved.
“I wanted something pared-back and graphic, but strongly infused with seduction,” said designer Olivier Theyskens of his second resort collection for his own brand, speaking at the label’s Parisian headquarters in the storied Hôtel de Bourrienne, a hôtel particulier from the Directory period.
The designer, whose long hair was twisted into a low bun to beat the Parisian heatwave, played around with metallic hardware on his exclusively black, white and nude silhouettes: He replaced buttons on a high-waisted sailor pant with silver hook and eyes, added corset details on the front of white T-shirts and blew up a metallic eye on the neck of a flowing silk dress, linking the straps to the front of the garment. A hook and eye detail was even sewn onto a bathing suit, the brand’s first swimwear piece.
There were simpler pieces as well, including a heavy wool crepe coat with sharp shoulders, long figure-hugging dresses with basque-like double scoop necklines, and a structured evening jacket with a built-in gilet to be worn bare-chested, inspired by the timeless glamour of Helmut Newton pictures.
Prints were discreet, including a reproduction of the Art Nouveau wallpaper on the walls of the headquarters on a black evening jacket with slightly ballooned sleeves, and a new “OT” logo printed on a satin dress. “I drew it around 15 to 20 years ago,” said the designer, who currently has an exhibition on show at the Calais lace museum. “It’s quite simple, but we figured that it would be useful for collaborations.” Fittingly, the brand is launching its first eyewear line in collaboration with Jacques Marie Mage, set to come out in September.