Julien Dossena likes to shake things up a bit. He’ll take a style out of its element, bend it just so and insert it into a new universe — entirely of his own making: sexy, accessible and unique. For resort, he snatched elements from the American West — Palm Springs is the main reference, taking the desert resort city’s assertive, hair sprayed glamour and transforming it for the discerning, modern Parisian girl. He didn’t tone things down but rather updated them, using a prominent rose print — puffy bouquets of old-fashioned, pale pink ones, the kinds with smaller petals in the center — for a series of chic statement pieces. The ruffled, rockabilly flavored dress came in satin, another one had a tightly pleated skirt and sleeves — rhinestones buttons ran vertically down the chest. The suit jacket was cleanly cut with one button, while a floral patterned ivory sweater had a contrasting gray turtleneck.
The western streak included cowboy shirts red lightning strikes, and stylized cherry blossom prints: black, red and white; matching, silky shorts were embellished with a panel of black lace. Silver mesh dresses were printed with the same pattern. Mesh bags and jewelry completed the looks — jewelry designer Charlotte Chesnais has updated Eighties classics handsomely, making them thinner and longer.
Pushing past the guarded realm of the larger, luxury labels that dominate the Paris fashion proposition, Dossena has staked out a healthy place for Paco Rabanne, nudging the cynics aside with a welcome breath of oxygen.