Despite the sword of Damocles hanging over its head — a French commercial court is expected to decide on the ailing house’s future in mid-July after it went into receivership in April —the studio at Sonia Rykiel put together a collection intended to celebrate the insouciant, quintessentially Parisian attitude of its founder, even though the lineup may never go into production.
The result was largely pared back but effective with some fun twists thrown in for good measure, made up largely of classic French colors like red, white and blue — and of course plenty of black. A pair of loose, black cotton twill pants were tied at the back like an apron and given a shiny patch detail found on several looks. Slouchy masculine pants were paired with feminine yet casual silk blouses tone-on-tone or layered with trumpet skirts. A classic marinière sweater was taken off one shoulder with a red zipper detail, while a giant bow adorned the open back of a little black dress with exaggerated round shoulders that gave it a girly feel.
Details like polka-dots and dice — a reference to the late designer’s love of charms and good-luck symbols — found their way into prints and onto a transparent raincoat and black patent pumps. Some of the accessories were especially creative — a knit envelope bag reprised the sailor sweater’s stripes, elevated with a golden chain handle, while a giant vinyl shopper was a fun evocation of the black plastic bag for a lady about town.