Cobalt blue, rich teal and deep navy were some of the predominant tones in Y’s spring 2020 collection, quite a departure for the predominantly monochrome brand designed by Yohji Yamamoto’s creative team.

Both the label’s “Black” and “Pink” lines focused on artisanal techniques. A stunning selection of velvet dévoré pieces — a dress, a blouse, a top and trousers — were crafted by dipping the initially white velvet in a box of dye, creating unique patterns for each piece. Dark blue moons were then carved out of the velvet, their irregular edges giving an eerie effect.

There was a particular focus on denim pieces, lending the collection a more youthful aspect than previous offerings. High-waisted jeans and boxy jackets were hand-bleached — very Eighties — while dark blue stitches on a pair of straight white jeans were left unfixed, meaning their dye trickled along pant legs and clouded the pristine denim.

For the “Pink” line, the studio took elements from two previous Yohji Yamamoto collections to add to their silhouettes. A wing motif from the fall 2002 collection was added to the back of silk jackets and dresses, hand-painted by an atelier in Kyoto. Another standout piece was a long, white dress with a delicate floral print from the Yohji Yamamoto men’s spring 2001 collection, adding a touch of femininity.

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