Lockdown’s restrictions fired up Jonathan Anderson’s creative engines, with the designer channeling the work of fellow makers into his 2021 spring collections: Pol Anglada illustrated the mannequins’ heads for the men’s outing, while the industrial designer Bertjan Pot created masks that resembled hat brims for the women’s resort looks.
The resort collection was a mix of utilitarian silhouettes, soft edges and the outsize proportions for which Anderson is known. It landed on the doorsteps of press and buyers as a physical “show box,” filled with look book images; dried, pressed flowers; cutouts of accessories; fabric swatches, and inspirational messages, such as “The future is unwritten” and “Keep looking up.”
Anderson said he wanted to create a “time capsule of this moment” and to engage with his audience even if he couldn’t stage a runway show. In an interview at his new London headquarters, Anderson said he plans to put together a similar collection of “ephemera” for his Loewe collection later this month.
Resort featured tailored suits with culottes and jackets with contrasting sailor-style collars, long slashed tuxedo styles and frock coats with tapestry and wallpaper inspired patterns and giant patch pockets. Sharp white blouses with laser-cut patterns contrasted with dizzying, long striped T-shirts with sleeves that stretched straight to the floor.
Pom-poms the size of satsumas wended their way around the edges of dresses with handkerchief hems or bounced along the bottoms and sleeves of skinny sweaters. Dresses were long and languid and came with slashed sleeves or silky, rippling robes — all easy and made for lockdown lounging in style.