The day after Walter Chiapponi’s debut show for Tod’s last February, the group closed its production sites due to the pandemic. Despite his mixed feelings and concerns about the future, Chiapponi made a commitment to pay tribute to the company’s artisans, their craft skills, and the factories where his designs come to life.
“The collection evolved in tandem with the artisans. It was a fascinating process, to see them sharing their love for what they do,” Chiapponi said during a preview. Instead of “overdesigning” or being inspired by a specific theme, Chiapponi worked with the artisans and in a more spontaneous way.
A natural continuation of the fall aesthetic — which was rooted in wardrobe staples worked with a relaxed hand — the pre-spring lineup is considered transitional and consists of only 10 looks. Chiapponi breathed new life into archival silhouettes and traditional feminine tropes.
A long military parka was distressed to obtain a worn-out feel, while a trenchcoat cinched at the waist and a matching full skirt were given a couture touch by adding tan leather piping. A knee-length handmade crochet suit with pony hair details was granny chic with a slight Seventies flair, which Chiapponi is progressively adding to the Tod’s equation.
Landing in stores in December — no delivery reshuffles for Tod’s — the clothes bridge late winter and early spring, with the brand’s staple Gommino pattern worked into puffers and mingling with the likes of a powdery blue silk bow blouse.
“A product should and can be desirable regardless of the season it is intended for,” Chiapponi mused.
The designer succeeded in conveying a sophisticated, easy chic in sync with the lifestyle attitude of the brand.