“A harbinger of more tempered romance to come?” my colleague Bridget Foley questioned in her review of Brock Collection’s fall 2020 show, referring to an all-black suit.
With that look as an indicator, it’s likely that when Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock started designing resort back in February, they did so intending to develop a more minimalistic elan than has typically marked their collections. Once the pandemic hit, simplifying the collection felt necessary. Vassar and Brock then took time, like many designers this season, to rethink what the Brock woman would want when the collection hits stores. (Brock noted that while they are planning on a traditional resort November/December/January delivery, it might be pushed back a little to December.)
“There’s an element of at-home — pajama-y slip skirt that’s a sexier look for being at home,“ Vassar said. “And then there is that element of dreamy, romantic — can’t wait to wear that — floral, taffeta dress.” They kept the collection tight. Aside from some major signature flourish — a singular evening gown and decorative taffeta frocks — the collection was made up of buy-now-wear-now, natural-toned, easy numbers.
Brock explained that fabric direction overall was a “day-to-night but grounded feeling.” A favorite fabric, linen, was offered in considerable variety — a denim-like full-skirted dress atop matching trousers, a white pajama shirt over silky pants, lightweight little tops and jackets and even linen-based flats. The collection wasn’t all breezy. A black, soft linen coat-dress with nipped in waist (a reiteration from the brand’s beginning) and heavier fabrics — suede skirts, a corduroy suit — grounded the lineup with utilitarian style while softer, body-hugging looks played to Brock Collection’s quintessential romance. For instance, a simple silk cami with slip skirt, delicate little sweaters (adorable with a cotton lace midi skirt), and even an unexpected, playful viscose gingham cardigan-and-legging set.
The collection was shot guerrilla-style, sunup to sundown, between Malibu and Calabasas Canyons; a “very California shoot,” Brock and Vassar agreed. The images are surely stunning — the natural, moody light accentuating the collection’s more low-key, relaxed vibe.