After spending over a month and a half in the Hungarian countryside, Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor wanted to design a resort collection that emulated the balancing and transformative effects of nature she felt while quarantining, aptly titling the array, “Human/Nature.”
“We thought this would be the most honest topic to work around,” Sandor expressed over a Zoom call. “I look at it as a whole, as a context in a way, not only silhouettes — we looked at a lot of organic shapes, rusticity, imperfection.” She also noted that the entire collection was designed remotely.
The designer incorporated cutouts in tops and dresses, ruched and open-weave techniques, twisted and deconstructed (but still very clean) tailoring across both men’s and women’s wear in a palette of earthy tones. Details such as sea-washed hardware and finishings, real ceramic buttons, rustic surfaces — a pale green pleated set — and the brand’s two main prints of the seasons — porcelain rose and ocelot — all referenced ideas from nature. Details and silhouettes aside, Sandor’s ongoing efforts in sustainability cemented the importance of balance in nature even further. The designer mentioned that while 52 percent of Nanushka’s fall collection was sustainable, the percentage was assumed to be even higher for resort (the brand was still working through final numbers within production). For the season, the brand upped its number of FSC-certified viscoses, organic cottons and regenerated leather, introduced a repurposed faux fur made from 100 percent post-consumer polyester and changed all of their denim to organic cottons and organic indigo.
The brand’s success continued with its play on contrasts: boxy, oversize blazers with softer tailoring or buttery vegan leather layers with modestly body-hugging, cutout dresses. The first look in Sandor’s resort collection look book — a savvy baby yellow FSC-certified stretch velvet one-piece bodysuit (made from cellulose-based fibers sourced from sustainability managed forests) and georgette pants topped with a vegan leather belt — proved standout for for women’s while more fluid separates, like a breezy, brown satin cardigan, felt of the time and fresh for men’s.
Within a few of the images, Sandor layered new Nanuska logo scarves. The designer mentioned the scarves are part of a separate capsule called the “Symbol Collection,” which was designed to be a collection of androgynous garments — hoodies, T-shirts, scarves, etc. — that “distill everything that Nanushka stands for such as comfort, functionality, versatility.” The capsule is just the beginning of a stand-alone selection that will live within the brand going forward, much like the brand’s cohesive denim and accessories.