Emilia Wickstead has understandably been feeling nostalgic these days.
So for her latest resort outing, she looked back to the supermodels of the ’90s and everything they stood for, from beauty and femininity to the idea of taking charge of one’s life.
“Yes, they were the ultimate pin-ups but these women also represented something so much bigger: They created their own framework and owned their destinies and careers,” said Wickstead, whose formative years are filled with memories of seeing the Big Six in the pages of Vogue — issues had to be air-freighted to her home of New Zealand — and observing her designer mother’s clients, who all embodied the supermodel look in their power suits.
For resort, she wanted to give that ’90s look a modern-day spin, adapting it for her own community of ambitious and ultra-chic clients — including the jewelers, writers and art professionals who have been appearing in her campaigns.
She did so by focusing on clean, sharp lines; striking square necklines, and even adding a subtle touch of grunge to her signature polished look with yellow and black plaids and bold green florals — designed as a reimagining of ’90s ditsy floral prints.
A metallic jacquard midi skirt and miniature bralette to match was among the highlights — and had Kate Moss’ name written all over it.
To capture the vivacious energy of the supermodels, Wickstead juxtaposed dark neutrals against a bright palette of pinks, yellows and greens, which also featured across a new range of chunky knits, worn with more formal pencil skirts or tailored trousers.
The aim was to offer a sense of ease, either by pairing a little cable-knit with more tailored pieces and evening fabrics or offering one-stop solutions in the form of slinky dresses and jumpsuits a woman can simply throw on and create a full look.
“Ease doesn’t mean not dressing up. This collection is about dress up, which is what we all want right now, but at the same time it’s not fussy, where you feel over-the-top or insensitive to what’s happening around you. I’ve always thought dressing needs to be right for the times,” added the designer.