Erdem Moralioglu has revisited his beloved aristo British ladies with a collection he describes as an “ode to London,” with models walking across gray and rainy Trafalgar Square wearing brogues and long, elegant dresses and suits, and with barely there makeup and artfully undone hair.
It was an unfussy collection for generation lockdown: With people confined to their homes for the better part of the year, parties cancelled and pubs closed, these are the sort of looks that suit parties by Zoom, early nights and a craving for glamour — even while whipping up banana bread or feeding a sourdough starter.
The designer paired fluttery party dresses with slouchy sweaters and created comfy cotton trenchcoats, slip- and shirtdresses that stretched as far down as the ankle.
Moralioglu said the “attitude and feeling are right for now,” and described the collection as “stripped back,” although he certainly didn’t stint on fabrics, materials or techniques, popping sculptural poplin sleeves onto a T-shirt dress; working fil coupé fabric into a long, dramatic coat; embellishing a delicate tulle dress with little blue crystals, or an organza one with hand-appliquéd roses.
Although shops and pubs are open now, and it’s no longer raining in London, Moralioglu has kept that lockdown spirit alive, making more of his wool and cashmere blankets, which proved an instant hit when he launched them in November along with the fall collection.
The pandemic appears to be (hopefully) waning in many countries, but the demand for comfort, security — and stealth glamour — lives on chez Erdem, as does the Blitz spirit of those doughty aristo ladies who so inspire the designer.