“Continuing to not move away from reality, but push it back into uber femininity, it’s kind of what we do…well, it’s exactly what we do, but going there even more,” designer Phillip Lim spoke during a walk-through of his resort collection in his Great Jones Street storefront. Uber femininity from Lim comes with a cool factor, especially prevalent for resort through new utilitarian, functional and convertible elements melded with girly moments, made unfussy with slight deconstructed, more natural elements (although the season did include a few “glitter bomb” accessories).
“Resilient femininity,” Lim and his team termed it, adding that the collection’s versatility upheld the notion of not being just “one type of feminine.”
The mix of utility and functionality continued from fall (as did the use of unexpected colors and elevated fabrications), like zip-front scuba dresses with knit sleeves that could be undone and wrapped as a scarf, or flight suit-inspired technical poplin trousers (and jumpsuits) with convertible drawstrings and apron-style panels, styled with a sexy-cool vegan leather halter top, foiled bag and architectural, rounded platform sandals. The designer also offered a new proposition for tailoring through a sexy midriff-baring three-piece tuxedo — a suit jacket with built-in bralette and matching skinny needle pants, taken apart from an old shawl collar tuxedo.
Lim revisited tropes that he started his career with: divine duchess silk separates with undone rosette and crystal embellishments for evening that felt as fresh as ever. Elsewhere, new elevated knitwear with peek-a-boo cutouts or carwash panels, breezy cotton poplin separates and dresses, unclipped fil coupe sets (great in a melon color) and new outerwear (from a vegan leather trench to convertible double-faced coats with unbuttoned, lightweight technical quilted liners) were layered together in a way that felt feminine yet approachable, polished yet urban.