Funny, sexy, bold, colorful. A surprising selection of adjectives was used by Marina Moscone when describing her resort collection. In the past, the designer’s collections always included artful, painstaking crafted works, and although chic, they leaned more monastic. Resort upheld all of the ideas and signatures on which the label was built, but pushed the needle forward in all the right ways.
“It started with this looking forward, moving forward based on impulse and instinct,” Moscone said during a showroom walkthrough of the full collection, following its morning presentation on Spring Studios’ rooftop.
The collection’s bold palette — chartreuse, blush, peridot, poppy, aqua blue, daffodil, emerald, her most colorful to date — was the most obvious change, derived from the “womanly, sexy, abstract, humorous and sporty” works of artist Sarah Lucas, as well as sculptures by Carol Bove. Bove’s twisted metal works also reminded Moscone of sculptural, twisted silhouettes and manipulated satins, while its oxidation “emulated rebirth and reemergence.”
Moscone looked back to the ’70s for free-spirited feeling, psychedelic motifs and sexier, body-hugging modern silhouettes. For instance, standout jacquard coats featuring a hand-drawn tapestry motif of mushrooms, florals and an abstract lightning bolt “MM” logo (inspired by David Bowie) with vibrant Mongolian fur trim, worn atop bleach splattered frock and new legging trousers. The playful mushroom shapes, too, came in the form of jewelry or as zipper toggles on vintage Italian-inspired cycling knits (a nod to Moscone’s maternal grandfather’s past as a professional athlete in South Africa).
Speaking to sexier silhouettes, the designer was directly influenced by Angie Bowie and Shelley Duvall. Silk crepe de chine ruched tea dresses clung to the body just-so while suiting recalled Tommy Nutter’s Savile Row and the swaggy styles of David Bowie with super waisted versions of Moscone’s signature basque shapes.
As always, Moscone’s artful touches and “no detail left untouched” mentality took the fashions to another level. Hand-stitched horn and hand-dipped clay buttons adorned blazers, pops of color peeked through the zippers or undersides of pleated plisse frocks and separates, metal jewelry-like necklaces adorned dresses and new sheer layers of skintight contrast stitched colorful knits rounded out the collection’s sportiness.
“I wanted it to be really playful and funny and kind of humorous, but all of the techniques have to be held to the highest standard, as always,” she remarked.
In addition to resort, Moscone mentioned a handful of upcoming brand launches, including a line of home accessories (ranging from throws to tabletop goods), a handbag line (slated for February) and a new ready-to-wear line titled, “Uniform,” which will launch in September.
“It’s not a diffusion line, it’s made to the same standard of quality and fabrication, pricing will be lower because it’s direct-to-consumer, no wholesale.”