Since taking over as men’s artistic director at Dior in 2018, Kim Jones has mined founder Christian Dior’s creations from the ’50s as inspiration for his dressy tailoring. For his resort collection, he skipped forward a decade to Dior’s successor Marc Bohan, whose graphic patterns inspired the laid-back, sporty lineup.
Roomy pants that pooled around the ankles anchored most of the looks, from relaxed tailoring in a warm palette of chocolate, forest green, caramel and dusty pink, to casual pieces in tactile materials. A mohair cardigan came in a stylized argyle print incorporating the “CD” initials, while shearling was used for a range of jackets and vests.
Jones played with subtle variations on the Dior Oblique pattern, perhaps Bohan’s most lasting contribution to the house’s visual identity. But the former Dior designer’s lesser-known logos also provided fodder for inspiration: the “CD” initials, shaped like a heart, came embroidered on jackets and shirts.
Meanwhile, oversized “Christian Dior Atelier” logos were plastered on varsity jackets and baseball shirts.
“Obviously, the customer will recognize and be comfortable in the Dior shapes, but we wanted to play with proportions a bit and look at a way of making tailoring feel less formal, but still really relevant,” Jones said in a statement.
“The color palette was really a compilation of all our favorite colors we used over the last three years — mixing that together and bringing it forward so that we could then move into the next step of what we do at Dior. I think it’s good to reinvent what you do,” he added.
There was plenty of novelty here to keep revving the Dior juggernaut, including the B30 sneaker; a weekender bag called the Lingot, in reference to its rectangular shape, and a quilted variation on the Saddle bag.
Nylon windbreakers that compress into Saddle bags were also sure to generate buzz. “The packable pieces are really key this season. They represent savoir-faire in a new way for us: not as a particular fabric or embroidery, but as a real study of construction and function,” Jones said.
As the world emerges from the coronavirus pandemic, that pragmatic approach felt both grounded and optimistic: packing a suitcase never felt so good.